Home batteries
Buying a home battery: what to know before you get quotes
A battery is a big purchase, and quotes use terms that aren't always obvious. This guide walks through the decisions in the order you'll make them, with the official rules behind each one.
On this page
1. Is a battery right for you?
Who gets the most value, and why payback isn't guaranteed.
Learn more2. Sizing
Working out how much storage you can actually fill and use.
Learn more3. Backup
What runs in a blackout, and what to ask for.
Learn more4. AC or DC coupling
Adding to existing solar versus installing both together.
Learn more5. Safety and location
Battery chemistry and where a battery can't go.
Learn more6. Wear and warranties
How batteries age and how to read the warranty.
Learn more7. Incentives and VPPs
The federal discount and what a virtual power plant asks of you.
Learn more8. Buying safely
Sales tactics to watch for and your rights.
Learn moreCompare batteries
Usable capacity, power and warranties for CEC-approved batteries, side by side.
Learn more
Key terms in a battery quote
Usable capacity (kWh)
How much energy you can actually draw from the battery. Compare this figure, not the total or 'nominal' size.
Power (kW)
How much the battery can deliver at once, which affects how many appliances it can run together, especially during a blackout.
Round-trip efficiency
Some energy is lost each time a battery charges and discharges. For lithium-ion batteries, energy.gov.au puts this at typically about 10%.
Coupling
DC-coupled batteries share a hybrid inverter with your solar. AC-coupled batteries have their own inverter and are the usual way to add a battery to an existing system.
1. Is a battery right for you?
A battery saves money by storing solar you'd otherwise export and using it later, so you buy less from your retailer. It can also help on a time-of-use plan, by covering the expensive evening peak.
Homes that use a lot of electricity in the evening and overnight, and that export plenty of solar during the day, have the most to gain. A NSW Government guide found the strongest case for higher-use households (over 16 kWh a day) on time-of-use tariffs.
Payback isn't guaranteed. energy.gov.au cautions that the savings may not cover the cost of a battery within its warranty period. Ask each installer to show the assumptions behind any savings estimate, such as your usage, tariff and feed-in rate, so you can check them.
Money isn't the only reason people buy one. Backup during outages and using more of your own solar matter to many households, but they're worth weighing against the price.
How a battery works, day and night
Spare solar charges the battery during the day. In the evening, the battery powers your home, and the grid tops up if it runs low.
Daytime
Solar panelsGenerating
Your homeUses solar first
BatteryCharging
The gridGets what's left
Evening and night
BatteryDischarging
Your homeEvening peak
The gridBackstop
- Solar energy
- Battery energy
- Grid energy
Big batteries are taking over the evening peak
In the first half of 2026, nine large-scale battery projects were switched on across Australia, adding 7.1 GWh of storage. That's more than in all of 2025. They charge in the middle of the day, when solar is plentiful, and supply the evening peak, when the grid has traditionally relied on gas and coal. In the June quarter, battery supply in the evening peak rose 228% on a year earlier, according to AEMO.
Batteries now supply more of the evening peak than gas
In the September quarter of 2026, grid-scale batteries supplied 8% of electricity between 4 pm and 9 pm, more than gas (5.1%) for the first time in any quarter, according to AEMO. Batteries set the wholesale price in almost half of all trading intervals, up from 18% a year earlier. AEMO's sample data also showed that homes with rooftop solar and a battery drew about three-quarters less electricity from the grid in the evening peak than homes with solar alone.
What it means for power prices
Wholesale electricity prices in the National Electricity Market averaged $63 per megawatt-hour in the September quarter of 2026, down 27% on a year earlier and the lowest September quarter since 2021, according to AEMO. From 1 July 2026, the regulated reference price for household electricity also came down. Wholesale prices feed into retail bills slowly, so it takes time for changes to show up on yours.
Wholesale price, September quarter 2026
$63 /MWh
Down 27% on a year earlier
What this means if you're buying a battery
Wholesale costs are only one part of a power bill, and network costs are still rising in some areas, so your own bill may not fall by as much.
Cheaper grid power also means each kilowatt-hour a battery replaces is worth a little less. Ask installers to base any savings estimate on your current tariff, not last year's, and check whether a time-of-use plan, a virtual power plant or the Solar Sharer Offer's free midday power changes the numbers.
The evening peak is still when the grid works hardest. A home battery covers your own evening use with solar you stored during the day, and that doesn't depend on what the wholesale market does. In AEMO's sample, homes with solar and a battery took about three-quarters less from the grid between 4 pm and 9 pm than homes with solar alone.
2. Sizing: how much storage do you need?
The right size is the storage you can fill on most days and use before the sun comes up. Bigger isn't better if it sits half empty.
Step 1: Find your evening and overnight use
Your retailer's smart meter data, or your solar app, shows how much you use from late afternoon until the morning. That's the energy a battery would replace.
Step 2: Check your spare solar
Look at how much solar you export on a typical day. The battery can only store what's left over after your daytime use.
Step 3: Allow for losses and the seasons
About 10% is lost charging and discharging, and winter solar is lower. A battery sized to your summer surplus may not fill in winter.
Step 4: Think ahead
An electric vehicle, heat pump or pool can change the answer. Tell installers about plans in the next few years.
A worked example
Say your data shows you use about 9 kWh between 4pm and 7am, and your solar exports about 15 kWh on a typical day. To deliver 9 kWh after losses, the battery needs roughly 10 kWh of usable capacity, and your exports can fill it on most days. A 20 kWh battery would rarely fill, so the extra capacity would add cost without adding much benefit.
The federal discount also shapes the decision. It pays the full rate for the first 14 kWh of usable capacity, 60% of the rate from 14 to 28 kWh, and 15% from 28 to 50 kWh. Large batteries cost more per kWh after the discount.
What that looks like over a day
The shaded green areas are the evening and overnight use a well-sized battery can cover.
- Solar generation
- Household use
- Supplied by the battery
3. Backup: what runs in a blackout?
energy.gov.au notes that a battery only provides backup if it's configured to, and not all systems can. Ask each installer to spell out exactly what will keep running.
- Whole home or essential circuits only (for example lights, fridge and water pump)?
- Will the solar panels keep charging the battery during a long outage?
- How quickly does backup switch on, and will computers or a modem restart?
- Can the battery's power output (kW) run your essential appliances at the same time?
- How much charge is reserved for outages, and can you change it?
- Are the backup switching equipment and extra wiring included in the price?
How backup works in an outage
With backup set up, the system disconnects from the grid and keeps your essential circuits running on solar and the battery.
During a grid outage
Solar panelsKeep working in daylight
Hybrid inverterWith backup switching
Essential circuitsFor example lights, fridge, modem
The gridOutage
BatteryBackup reserve
Hybrid inverterSame inverter as above
Other circuitsOff until power returns
What stays on depends on how the system is set up. Ask each installer which circuits are on backup, how quickly it switches over, and whether solar keeps charging the battery during a long outage.
- Solar energy
- Battery energy
- Disconnected
4. AC or DC coupling
Both work. The right choice depends mostly on whether you already have solar.
DC coupling (hybrid inverter)
One hybrid inverter runs the panels and the battery. It's tidy for a new solar and battery system, and slightly more efficient because energy is converted fewer times.
AC coupling (separate inverter)
The usual way to add a battery to an existing system. Your solar inverter keeps working as it is, and the battery gets its own inverter alongside it, so nothing that works needs replacing.
Replacing your inverter instead
If your solar inverter is old or near the end of its warranty, swapping it for a hybrid and adding a DC-coupled battery can make sense. Ask installers to price both options.
AC and DC coupling, side by side
DC coupling · one hybrid inverter
Solar panels and batteryBoth connect to the hybrid
Hybrid inverterRuns both
SwitchboardPowers your home
Good for a new solar and battery system. One inverter keeps it tidy, and it's slightly more efficient because energy is converted fewer times.
AC coupling · two inverters
Solar panelsExisting system
Solar inverterKept as it is
SwitchboardPowers your home
BatteryAdded later
Battery inverterThe battery's own
SwitchboardSame switchboard
Good for adding a battery to solar you already have. Your solar inverter keeps working as it is, and the battery gets its own inverter alongside it, so nothing that works needs replacing.
- Solar energy
- Battery energy
5. Safety: chemistry and where a battery can go
Most home batteries are lithium-ion, in two main chemistries. A NSW Government guide notes lithium iron phosphate (LFP) is generally considered safer than nickel manganese cobalt (NMC) because of its better thermal stability, while stressing that overall product quality matters most. The chemistry is on the datasheet, so ask if it isn't in the quote.
Installation must follow the Australian standard AS/NZS 5139. Guidance from Australia's electrical regulators lists places a battery must not go, including ceiling spaces, set into wall cavities, under stairs or along exit and escape routes, on most roofs, and where a vehicle could hit it. There are also minimum distances from windows into living areas and from exits. If the battery is close to a wall of a habitable room, a non-combustible barrier is needed.
Fire and Rescue NSW recommends a cool, ventilated, low-traffic spot away from entries and exits. A garage wall is a common choice, but ask how the installer will protect the battery from cars.
6. How batteries wear, and what the warranty should say
All batteries lose capacity over time, and independent testing found big differences between products. In the government-funded Battery Test Centre trial, some batteries kept around 80% of their capacity after more than 2,500 cycles, while others lost capacity much faster or developed faults. Read the warranty for:
- Warranty length: energy.gov.au says many manufacturers offer 10 years
- Retained capacity: the minimum the battery is guaranteed to hold at the end (energy.gov.au gives 60% after 10 years as an example)
- Throughput limit: total energy (in MWh) the battery can deliver before the warranty ends, even if that's before 10 years
- Whether joining a virtual power plant or charging from the grid changes the warranty
- Who honours the warranty in Australia if the installer stops trading
- The installer's separate workmanship warranty
7. Incentives and virtual power plants
The federal Cheaper Home Batteries Program cuts the upfront cost. The Clean Energy Regulator puts the discount at around 30%, and installers normally apply it directly to the quote. To qualify, the battery must be on the Clean Energy Council's approved list, installed by a Solar Accreditation Australia installer with a battery endorsement, compliant with AS/NZS 5139, and installed with new or existing solar.
The discount steps down every six months until 2030, so the same battery costs a little more over time. Some states add their own support. See battery rebates for the current details in your state.
Eligible batteries must be able to join a virtual power plant (VPP), but you don't have to join one. A VPP lets a company use some of your battery's charge in return for credits or payments. Some state incentives, like the NSW one, require it. Check how much charge is kept for you before you sign up.
8. Buying safely: red flags and your rights
Most installers are reputable, but battery incentives attract some high-pressure selling. Be cautious if you see:
- Pressure to sign on the day, or 'today only' prices
- Big claims about savings or 'free' batteries without showing the numbers
- A quote that doesn't name the exact battery, inverter and usable capacity
- No clear statement of how the federal discount was applied
- A battery that isn't on the Clean Energy Council's approved list
- Unsolicited door-knocking or calls. Under Australian Consumer Law you get a 10 business day cooling-off period for these sales.
Choosing who to buy from
Look for a retailer that has signed the New Energy Tech Consumer Code. Signatories commit to clear information, no pressure selling, itemised quotes and written contracts, and to honouring warranties. Check the installer's accreditation and licence numbers, and get at least two or three quotes so you can compare like with like.
When you request quotes through Energy Quotes, up to three participating installers who service your area will contact you. Use the checklists on this page to compare what they offer.
Sources
Facts on this page were checked on 6 October 2026. Rules and programs change, so confirm details with your installer.
- Australian Energy Market Operator (AEMO) — Warmer weather, solar and batteries reshape energy markets (Quarterly Energy Dynamics Q3 2026)
- Clean Energy Council — Bi-annual investment report: Large-scale renewable generation and storage, H1 2026
- energy.gov.au — Batteries
- energy.gov.au — Warranties and insurance
- NSW Government — Home solar battery guide (2020)
- NSW Government — Choosing a home solar battery (2020)
- Electrical Regulatory Authorities Council — Battery energy storage system installation requirements
- Fire and Rescue NSW — Residential battery energy storage systems
- ARENA — Battery Test Centre Report 5
- CHOICE — Solar battery trial results
- Clean Energy Regulator — Solar batteries and the Cheaper Home Batteries Program
- Clean Energy Regulator — Solar batteries: eligibility
- ACCC — Telemarketing and door-to-door sales
- New Energy Tech Consumer Code — Consumer protection standards
Frequently asked questions
Do I need solar to get a battery?
Most home batteries are paired with solar so they can store daytime solar energy for use at night. Some batteries can also charge from the grid. Installers can explain what suits your situation.
Will a battery keep my power on during a blackout?
Only if the system is designed and installed for backup. Not every battery setup provides backup power, so ask each installer specifically what will and won't run during an outage.
Can a battery be added to my existing solar system?
Often, yes. Depending on your current inverter, you may need a hybrid inverter or a battery with its own inverter (AC-coupled). Tell us about your existing system and installers will advise.
How long does a home battery last?
Many manufacturers offer a 10-year product warranty, but batteries lose capacity over time and some fail early. Check the warranty's retained-capacity guarantee and throughput limit, not just the number of years.
Can I charge my battery from the grid?
Many batteries can, for example on a cheap overnight tariff or during a Solar Sharer free period, but check the warranty and your electricity plan. To get the federal discount, the battery must still be installed with new or existing solar.
Is a bigger battery always better?
No. A battery you can't fill on most days adds cost without much benefit, and the federal discount pays less per kWh above 14 kWh. Size it to your evening and overnight use and your spare solar.
Is it safe to put a battery in my garage?
Often, yes. Garages are a common location, but the installation must follow AS/NZS 5139, including keeping clear of exits and protecting the battery from vehicles. Your installer will check the site.
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